Bastide Towns

The heading is not a typo - there was no thought of "bastard towns" in French history....although Russell was believed to mumble something like that after climbing to the top of the third very steep and challenging b. town. Can't you just tell by the body language...?

Bastide Puycelsi

There are some 300 or so surviving Bastide towns in France, all built around 1200 and while "the best preserved" according to Lonely Planet include Monpazier, Domme and Villefranche de Rouergue to our north in the Dordogne region , we have discovered some smaller delights close to us too. There appears to be controversy between the different guides (Frommers, DK or Lonely Planet) as to what is a " good Bastide". While undoubtedly the authenticity and preservation of the architecture and artifacts is vital, there is also a view that too much emphasis on tourism spoils or taints the historical import. The tiny bastide township of Cordes is perhaps such a case because its sense of history gets absolutely lost in the plethora of touristy shops that line its main street. Visitors are mesmorised by the wares in the windows rather than the quaint restoration work that has been done.

Cordes, with its impossibly steep terrain

Our pick was Puycelsi, a tiny bastide town which we fell in love with for its charm and lack of pretentiousness. We found little tourism other than a cafe here and a restaurant there or a shop or two selling local produce (biscuits, jams, wines or handcrafts). The appeal lay in the fabulous little street scapes, the buildings themselves and the wonderful little courtyards that opened out into al fresco cafés. We like a bit of history but don't mind if it is broken up with a liberal dose of tourist pampering in the form of a leafy courtyard here and an umbrella-covered square full of luncheon menues and Vins de Pays there! And that is what we found in Puycelsi. Laid back, not overly touristy and incredibly pretty, cute and quaint. We found a gorgeous little hotel here (Russ is standing next to it) that costs 55 Euros a double per night and it boasts a pool and 2 gardens to relax in!! If we didn't have a magnificant house of our own to stay in, we might well have been tempted.

Puycelsi, our favourite b. town

Lunch in Puycelsi, overlooking the valleys below

(compliments of mum!!)

We settled for lunch instead, however, but may possibly return with Jan and Nossie. This circuit of the 'bastide towns' was pointed out to us by Geraldine's friend Jean-Francois, and we spent several days hypnotised and enthralled by the countryside journey as well by each of our destinations.

Between bastides, we found this cute hamlet of Laroque which sat in front of huge rock walls that seemed to contain caves. The holes are visible in the background. Later I read that there actually were ancient caves in the area although whether or not these are they, I am not sure. But again, such a cute little countryside stop for a glass of cold H2O

BUT when a bastide town suddenly appears round a corner, pivoting on the pinnacle of a very high hill like Penne (below), it is breathtaking, and one marvels at the engineering feat that created this kind of overhang so many centuries ago.

Penne (above) and Bruniquel












From what I have read, these fortified bastides were built in a hurry between the 12th and 13th centuries for both strategic and economic reasons to fill 'empty areas' in France just before the hundred years' war. They were apparently built by both the English and the French and all feature the most steep and curvy cobbled streets, narrow in the extreme, with a variety of building facias, including fascinating cantileavered rooms jutting out over tiny gardens. So pretty. So different to Australia...anywhere!! These are private properties but the owners have created such special gardens out of almost nothing and the result is really uplifting and so picturesque!

Always there is colour: plants somehow dug into inhospitable rubble that softens the edges of the buildings, and leads the eye upwards towards some prominant building at the end of the street. Pots strategically placed up steps, along paths, on old rusty chairs. All so incredibly pretty and cared for and loved!

Puycelsi (above) and Penne below.

Bruniquel

There are still ruins waiting to be restored in bastides like Bruniquel where we saw some areas with large scaffolding errected to keep us out, and other old houses or homes For Sale, although none said "renovator's dream"!!?. We also saw evidence of newly built homes made to look authentically old and in keeping with the style of the particular village. These however look far more spacious and comfortable than the ones we saw for sale!!

We met a Victorian man who has lived at Puycelci for 19 years. He came to France as an art historian and became incredibly involved and interested in the renovation of the bastide townships. Over that time he and his wife purchased 3 adjoining houses that, with the help of an architect, they joined together. In the process of knocking out walls , they discovered that the original had been one big home and the joy of finding fireplaces and old portals was a huge excitement. His house now forms a U shape around a small courtyard which they have made into a 5 table outdoor café/restaurant.

Another day, another luncheon??