Albi - city of Toulouse Lautrec

About 64 kms north east of Balma lies the birthplace of Toulouse Lautrec. Albi is one of many bastide towns built in a hurry by the french in the 13th century just before the 100 year war with Britain. There are 300 surviving bastide towns in France today but they were

built to encourage settlement in empty areas of France. All follow a similar pattern of grid streets, a central square and fortified perimetres. Albi is no exception and is known mainly for its monolith of a church which dwarfs the surrounding area in a very imposing way. The Cathedral Sainte Cécile is not pretty; it wasn't meant to be. It was built to inspire fear and awe and to clearly demonstrate the power and strength of the Catholic Church against the Cathar heritics. It is the largest brick cathedral in the world.

photo of our approach to Sainte Cécile

The interior of the Cathedral is entirely painted in dark tones with scenes of Judgement Day, in three levels - the sky, the earth and Hell where the damned writhe in agony for their sins. It may be charming for those who are into it, but it did not appeal to us (as our friends would appreciate) however we were lured inside by the 18th century organs on which an Italian organist from Tréviglio was about to give a recital, the first for the summer season. The organs (16.4 metres wide and 15.6 metres high) are famous for their wonderful pitch as well as for the decorative casing in which they are housed. I didn't take any photos in deference to my good man who was actually beside me, but since he couldn't bear the sight of the cathedral walls and alcoves, I told him to close his eyes and let the music transpire and transport him with its sonorous chords. He did. It did. And he went to sleep.

When the snores began, I gently nudged him and asked him if he wanted to leave. He smiled broadly and we tip toed out.

It was to see the works of Toulouse Lautrec that we really went to Albi because this is where the bulk of his original work is held. It was donated by his parents after the Louvre rejected the offer.

I find him an interesting character who led a colourful but short life dying of alcoholism and syphyllis at the age of 36 having depicted much of the gay life of Montmartre in those heady days.

Paris was full of souvenirs of his work in the form of posters and I must admit to considering buying some on several occasions when we were there. Lautrec's work is not to everyone's taste,

although I love his stylistic and bold characterisations of the Can Can era, finding them colourful and stylised. The museum itself is housed in the Palais De Berbie with its classical gardens. One section is very formally laid out in the Saint -Salvi Cloister with cleverly devised rows of hedges which look stunning from above; the other planted area is just outside the museum itself and is more akin to a cottage garden with lots of colour and movement. Both are a remarkable contrast to the heavily fortified Palace itself which is like a huge bank vault, with only one small exit. Very secure one imagines.

Saint-Salvi Cloisters and the formal gardens there.

We will return to Albi on another trip because time ran out for us on this day and there is more to explore and enjoy including perhaps an al fresco luncheon. And it really is only 40 minutes on the Péage (motorway). Tomorrow we head off to Carcassonne to see another ancient Cité.